Protein Nanofibrils from Food Waste for Sustainable Cosmetics
by Mohammad Peydayesh
This innovative idea aims to harness the potential of protein nanofibrils derived from food waste and valorize them for cosmetics applications. The food industry generates significant amounts of waste and sidestreams containing valuable proteins, such as whey, plant proteins, and keratin, that can be applied to produce protein-rich cosmetics, including shampoos, creams, and masks. The transformation and self-assembly of these proteins into nanofibrils bring forth many advantages. For instance, the nanofibrils possess a higher surface-to-volume ratio, which enhances their interaction with the skin and hair, improving their functionality in cosmetic applications. Additionally, the outer surface of the nanofibrils is rich in a wide range of amino acids, further boosting their nutritional value and performance in the final cosmetic products. The project serves as a win-win strategy for the food and cosmetics industries. It is essential for the food industry since some of the proteins in food waste, such as keratin, are not edible, or some sidestreams have antinutritional compounds like phytic acid, posing a challenge in reintroducing them back into the food chain. However, other valuable components present in food waste, including lipids, polyphenols, and polysaccharides, can be effectively utilized in skincare and haircare products. By repurposing proteins from food waste in cosmetics, the net carbon footprint associated with food waste could be reduced, and instead of ending up in landfills or incinerators, these proteins are transformed into higher-value commodity products. This benefits the environment and enables the food industry to elevate its waste and extract additional value. Furthermore, this initiative significantly impacts the cosmetics industry, driving the development of more sustainable and environmentally friendly products. By incorporating protein nanofibrils derived from food waste into cosmetics formulations, companies can create effective green-based products with enhanced nutritional functionality, aligning with the growing demand for conscious consumer choices and sustainable beauty practices.
The radical nature of this idea stems from several key factors. First, it entails the utilization of protein nanofibrils derived from food waste for cosmetics applications, representing a groundbreaking approach that revolutionizes the way ingredients are sourced in the cosmetics industry. The transformation and self-assembly of proteins into nanofibrils introduce a new nutritional class characterized by a higher surface-to-volume ratio and a diverse range of amino acid profiles. This innovation enhances the functionality and performance of cosmetic products, setting them apart in terms of effectiveness. Second, this idea embraces sustainable resource utilization by repurposing proteins from food waste, addressing the issue of waste generation and making significant contributions to establishing a circular economy within both the food and cosmetics sectors. Additionally, by tackling the challenge of reintroducing non-edible proteins containing antinutritional compounds back into the food chain, this idea presents a viable solution to the complex problem of food waste valorization. By reimagining the potential of food waste proteins for cosmetics, this concept paves the way for transformative change, benefiting both the environment and the industries involved.
The key stakeholders are Food and Soft Materials (FSM) Lab at ETH Zurich, Mibelle Group, ZHAW and food industries, such as ELSA-MIFROMA, Fredag, Frigemo Fenaco, etc.
The main actors in FSM are Mohammad Peydayesh, Massimo Bagnani, and Raffaele Mezzenga, the inventors of the technology. At Mibelle, the main actor is Michael Peck working as Head of R&D Product Development. At ZHAW, the main actor is Petra Huber, a Senior lecturer for cosmetics and toxicology. Throughout the project phase, the team will interact with potential customers and users in several ways. Firstly, we will run market research by conducting search trends, surveys and consumer studies to understand preferences and demands for sustainable cosmetics. Second, we will test the products by involving potential customers to gather feedback on performance, safety, and overall user experience. Furthermore, we will work with cosmetics manufacturers to co-create product formulations, ensuring they meet the needs and expectations of the target audience. Finally, we will run digital campaigns, communicating the benefits of our innovative ingredients, sustainable beauty practices and the circular economy to raise awareness and encourage conscious consumer choices.
The research partner, Food and Soft Materials Lab at ETH Zurich brings expertise in protein extraction, transformation into nanofibrils, and process development. The team also comprises experts in nanotechnology, protein engineering, and formulation science to ensure cutting-edge innovation. In particular, Mohammad Peydayesh is a chemical engineer with experience in Process Sustainability and Life Cycle Assessment, and Massimo Bagnani is a biomedical engineer experienced in protein self-assembly and biomaterials development. Raffaele Mezzenga is a professor of soft materials pioneer in the development of protein-based advanced materials. Michael Peck is an R&D head with years of experience in innovation and industrial production of cosmetics. Petra Huber is a pharmacist with years of experience in research and innovation in cosmetics industries (e.g., LOREAL Group). Additionally, the collaboration with food industry partners brings insights into food waste streams and access to valuable proteins.
This idea reduces greenhouse gas emissions and alleviates the burden on waste management systems by diverting food waste from landfills and incineration. For example, the poultry industry generates approximately 40 million tons of chicken feathers annually as a byproduct. However, these feathers have been underutilized primarily because of their limited nutritional value and the difficulties associated with their slow biodegradation when disposed of. Additionally, the incineration of chicken feathers releases sulfur-related gases due to the abundance of cysteine present in them. These environmental challenges can be effectively tackled and transformed sustainably through the valorization of keratin found in chicken feathers to produce green cosmetics.
Furthermore, Incorporating protein nanofibrils from food waste into cosmetics enhances cosmetic products’ nutritional value and performance, providing consumers with practical and high-quality formulations. Additionally, it fosters the development of sustainable beauty practices by offering environmentally friendly and low-carbon footprint alternatives to conventional cosmetics, encouraging conscious consumer choices.
The idea of food waste conversion into high-value cosmetic ingredients creates new market opportunities and revenue streams. It stimulates innovation and drives the transformation of the cosmetics industry towards more sustainable and resource-efficient practices. This benefits the cosmetics sector and has positive economic implications for the food industry, as it allows for the extraction of additional value from food waste.
Lastly, by repurposing proteins from food waste, this idea promotes a circular economy approach. It transforms waste materials into higher-value commodity products, reducing waste generation and diverting resources from traditional disposal methods. This helps to conserve resources, minimize the carbon footprint associated with food waste, and promote a more sustainable and efficient industrial ecosystem.
This project has 3 working packages:
- WP1. Developing novel cosmetics – We develop films and coating for skin and hair treatment, having the protein nanofibrils as the main active ingredients and building blocks, and evaluate different formulations to investigate the synergic effects of protein nanofibrils and different bioactive ingredients. We allocate 10,000 CHF for this WP, covering the expenses for purchasing raw materials and running the characterization and processing.
- WP2. Testing – We focus on the characterization and performance evaluation of developed cosmetics. We will test the stability and performance of the products and benchmark them with commercially available products. We allocate 20,000 CHF for this WP.
- WP3. Pilot plant scale Production – Based on the results of WP1 and 2 our implementation partners will perform pilot-scale production of novel cosmetics products and assess the processability of the novel ingredients and products. We allocate 10,000 CHF for this WP.
After the successful implementation of this innobooster project, we intend to bring this technology to the market through the incorporation of an ETH spin-off company. To achieve this goal, we will evaluate the market potential of these novel materials by developing a business case and working with strategic partners in the cosmetics business, e.g., Mibelle Group. To further implement this project, we will consider raising additional funding from different sources, including private such as angels and VCs, and public/governmental such as different grants from the Swiss National Science Foundation and the Innosuisse. These additional funds will be used to cover the expenses for scaling up the production, introducing a diverse range of cosmetic products, such as lotions, serums, and conditioners, enriched with protein nanofibrils, and expanding the team.